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Turned Handle Bread Knife =
by Joseph M. Herrmann

For many years, I have been making a simple, flat bread = knife=20 that I sell at craft fairs and on the Internet. They are = functional,=20 easy to make, and, better yet, they sell well. If you are = interested=20 in how they are made, a reprint of the complete article from = Creative Woodworks & Crafts can be found on my website = at http://www.timbertreasures.com/.

My first=20 love in woodworking, however, is the lathe and I wanted to = design a=20 knife that would incorporate turning with the bread knife = that I=20 already make. A knife with a simple turned handle is what I = finally=20 decided upon.

The knife can be made from any cabinet = grade=20 hardwood. I chose tiger maple for the handle and walnut for = the=20 blade section for the knife featured here. Maple turns = extremely=20 well and tearout, a problem often encountered when using a=20 highly-figured wood such as tiger or birdseye maple for = cabinet=20 work, is virtually eliminated. Besides, the tiger maple = really=20 catches the eye and could help to justify the higher price = demanded=20 by this knife!

STOCK PREPARATION

One piece of walnut 9/16=E2=80=9D x 1-9/16=E2=80=9D x = 19=E2=80=9D and two pieces of curly=20 maple
9/16=E2=80=9D x 1-9/16=E2=80=9D x 5-1/2=E2=80=9D = are required for this project.=20 Run all three stock pieces through the planer at the same = time to=20 ensure that they are the same thickness.

The two = pieces of=20 tiger maple will be glued on so they flank the walnut, which = makes=20 up the main body of the knife. It is important that these = two=20 flanking pieces be in a single plane where their tops = intersect the=20 body of the knife. If they=E2=80=99re not, one side of the = knife handle will=20 stick out farther than the other side. Draw a reference line = 5-1/2=E2=80=9D=20 away from the end of the stock (see Fig. 1). When gluing, = line up=20 the flanking pieces with this line.

I used a = white-colored=20 pencil that I bought at an art supply store to mark the = walnut. As=20 you can see, it shows up much better than an ordinary = graphite=20 pencil on the dark wood.

GLUE-UP

Apply a coat of Titebond II wood glue to both sides of = the main=20 body and to just one side of each of the flanking pieces. I = like to=20 use Titebond II because it is stickier and doesn=E2=80=99t = seem to slide=20 around as much when clamped. Align the top ends of the = flanking=20 pieces with the reference line drawn earlier (see Fig.=20 2).

Adjustable hand screws work best to clamp the = assembly=20 together. They apply sufficient pressure across the joint = and, by=20 using them in multiples, uniform pressure can be applied = along the=20 entire length of the joint as well.

The glue is going = to=20 squeeze out along the joints. This is good because it shows = that=20 adequate glue was used and equal clamping pressure was = applied (see=20 Fig. 3). Just be sure to wipe off any glue that might have = seeped=20 out along the top of the handle adjacent to the end grain. = If you=20 don=E2=80=99t wipe the glue off with a damp cloth now, it = will stain the=20 wood and be much more difficult to remove than you might = think. Rub=20 the joint until all the excess glue appears to be gone...and = then=20 rub some more just to be sure!

Allow the glue to cure = for 24=20 hours, remove the clamps, and scrape off any dried glue = along the=20 edges. Remove about 1/32=E2=80=9D from both edges of the = stock on the=20 jointer just to clean up the edge.

PREPARING THE STOCK FOR = TURNING=20

The handle end of the knife must be squared up to provide = a flat=20 surface for the spur center. Cut off the end of the glued = blank so=20 the handle is approximately 5-1/4=E2=80=9D long.

The = center of the=20 turning must be positioned along the axis of the long piece = of stock=20 in order for the handle of the knife to be symmetrical. = Therefore,=20 locating the center point is crucial. With a straight edge = and a=20 sharp pencil, connect the corners of the walnut; ignore the = flanking=20 pieces entirely. Carefully centerpunch the intersection with = a sharp=20 awl, being sure to hit the exact center (see Fig. 4)! =

Mount=20 the assembly between the centers of the lathe using a small=20 3/8=E2=80=9D-diameter spur center in the headstock end of = the lathe (see=20 Fig. 5). The standard spur center that comes with most = lathes is too=20 large and will interfere with the turning toward the end of = the=20 process. Use a revolving cup center in the tailstock end of = the=20 lathe.

Always remove any nicks and scratches from the = tool=20 rest with a mill file and abrasive paper before starting any = turning. The goal is to create smooth, flowing lines. You = can=E2=80=99t do=20 this if your chisels are bouncing around as they ride over = the hills=20 and valleys created by the nicks and scratches in the tool = rest.

TURNING

I used a large roughing gouge to turn the built-up handle = portion=20 to a smooth cylinder approximately 1-1/4=E2=80=9D in = diameter. Use care,=20 however, not to remove any stock on what will later support = the=20 blade of the knife.

Measure over 5/16=E2=80=9D to the = left of the=20 joint of the handle. Make a 1=E2=80=9D diameter groove with = a parting tool=20 and outside calipers to the left of that line.

The = front=20 portion of the handle is now approximately 1=E2=80=9D in = diameter at its=20 widest point, while the flat portion of the knife is still = 1-1/2=E2=80=9D=20 wide. Obviously some transition shape must be turned to join = these=20 two different dimensions into a cohesive form. A half-bead = on the=20 blade side and a chamfer on the handle side will solve this = problem=20 and can be easily turned with a small spindle gouge (see = Fig.=20 6).

Interrupted turning can be difficult if the speed = of the=20 lathe is not high enough to produce a = =E2=80=9Cghost=E2=80=9D image of the blade.=20 2000 RPM appears to be an optimal speed to turn this = area.

I=20 grind my gouge almost to a sharp point as shown in Fig. 7. = Ground=20 this way, I find that it will do the work of a skew and = allow me to=20 get in tight at the base of the chamfer and half-bead much = easier.=20 And, I don=E2=80=99t have any of the problems normally = associated with the=20 skew.

Measure over 1-3/8=E2=80=9D to the left of the = handle joint and=20 make a 3/4=E2=80=9D-diameter groove with a parting tool. = Finally, measure=20 over 5=E2=80=9D to the left of the handle joint to mark the = end of the=20 handle; the ball detail will be to the left of this = mark.

The=20 rest of the handle can now be reduced to a long, flowing = cove and=20 bead. As before, this is best accomplished with a spindle = gouge or=20 even with the large roughing gouge. The handle will want to = flex, so=20 a light touch is necessary and support should be provided = with the=20 fingers of your left hand.

Turn a small = 5/16=E2=80=9D-diameter ball=20 with a small spindle gouge on the very end of the handle to = finish=20 the turning (see Fig. 8). This shape is easier to sand than = if the=20 handle were reduced to just a point. Besides, it adds more = visual=20 interest to an otherwise simple handle form (see Layout=20 Diagram).

SANDING

Like just about everyone else who works wood, I hate to = sand.=20 However, I consider it to be a necessary evil because I know = that=20 the secret to a great project is a good finish. And, a good = finish=20 starts with a good sanding job.

A small sanding disc = in a=20 hand-held electric drill reduces the drudgery involved with = this=20 task. Start with 150-grit abrasive paper attached to a = padded Velcro=20 sanding disc and progress to 320-grit. The padded disc works = great=20 on the long, flowing portions of the turning but is a little = difficult to get into the corners, so use the more rigid, = hard=20 rubber sanding disc to do this.

This method works so = well=20 and is so efficient that it didn=E2=80=99t even take two = minutes to sand the=20 bulk of the turning! Ordinary hand sanding techniques, = however, are=20 employed to sand the small ball at the end of the=20 handle.

Remove the completed blank from between = centers,=20 being very careful that you don=E2=80=99t tilt the turning = and snap off the=20 small waste nub still attached to the ball (see Fig. 9). If = you do,=20 it often will undercut the wood, leaving a crater in the = turning=20 that is virtually impossible to remove. Simply nip the small = nub off=20 with a bandsaw, allowing enough waste stock so you can round = over=20 the top of the ball to a circular shape.

FORMING THE BLADE PORTION =

Now that the handle is completed, you can begin to form = the rest=20 of the bread knife. The blade portion of the Layout Diagram = is drawn=20 on a grid. By enlarging that portion of the diagram by 250% = on a=20 photocopy machine, you will get a full-size pattern if = desired. When=20 full size, each square of the grid will measure 1/4=E2=80=9D = square and the=20 pattern should be 1-9/16=E2=80=9D wide and 12=E2=80=9C long. = Trace the pattern (or=20 make your own pattern using the measurements given) and cut = out the=20 profile with a bandsaw.

Because the blade is thinner = than=20 the handle, it will be necessary to elevate the blade = portion to=20 bandsaw its shape. To do this, cut into a thicker piece of = stock (I=20 used a piece of 3/4=E2=80=9D x 10=E2=80=9D particle board), = stopping about 1/2=E2=80=9D away=20 from sawing through its front edge. Attach this piece to the = table=20 with double-stick tape so it can=E2=80=99t move (see Fig. = 10). Cutting the=20 profile is easy now.

Do = not cut=20 out the inner =E2=80=9Cbelly=E2=80=9D of the knife at this = point. This area will be=20 cut out AFTER the top edges = have been=20 rounded over. I found that this provides a little extra = support for=20 the base of the laminate trimmer that is needed to prevent = it from=20 =E2=80=9Ctipping=E2=80=9D as the curves are shaped. =

An oscillating spindle=20 sander works best to sand the inside and outside curves. = (However, a=20 drum sander installed in a drill press could also be used.) = But=20 again, just as before, the blade portion must be elevated to = do so.=20 Draw a circle in the center of a piece of waste stock = slightly=20 larger than the 2=E2=80=9D drum used. Cut it out on the = bandsaw and use the=20 double stick tape to attach the scrap to the table of the = sander=20 (see Fig. 11).

I like to round over the top curves = of my=20 knives. It is more visually appealing and definitely feels = better=20 when held. Use a 3/16=E2=80=9D roundover bit in a small = laminate trimmer to=20 do this.

SUPPLIES
Wood:
walnut=20 =E2=80=93 one piece 9/16=E2=80=9D x 1-9/16=E2=80=9D x = 19=E2=80=9D
=20 for main knife body;
maple =E2=80=93 two pieces = 9/16=E2=80=9D x 1-9/16=E2=80=9D x 5-1/2=E2=80=9D=20
for = flanking=20 pieces for handle;
scrap = wood=20 (optional)=E2=80=93 3/4=E2=80=9D x 10=E2=80=9D

Tools:=20
lathe, planer, clamps, jointer, awl, =
3/8=E2=80=9D-dia. spur center,=20 mill file,
large roughing gouge, parting tool, calipers, = small=20 spindle gouge,
electric drill with sanding discs, = bandsaw,=20 spindle sander, small laminate trimmer,
3/16=E2=80=9D = roundover bit,=20 sharp chisel

One 3/8=E2=80=9D x 10-1/2=E2=80=9D metal = blade*
Two 3/8=E2=80=9D x=20 No. 4 pan head sheet metal screws
No. 1 Phillips-head=20 screwdriver
Three-step buffing system = (Beall=E2=80=99s**)
Titebond II=20 wood glue or glue of choice
Beeswax
Linseed oil=20 mixture
Deft lacquer-based finish
Assorted abrasive = paper and=20 stearated silicon carbide abrasive = paper**
Spline=20 from plastic term paper cover (optional)
White-colored=20 pencil
Double-stick tape=20

*Available from Timber Treasures, = 1882=20 Route 45 North, Rock Creek, Ohio 44084; phone: = 440-563-5785;=20
website: http://www.timbertreasures.com/; Order: = $4.75 ea.=20 includes screws and shipping.

**Available from Packard Woodworks; = phone:=20 800-683-8876; website: www.packardwoodworks.com;
or from = Craft=20 Supplies USA; phone: 800-551-8876;
website: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/. =

Fig.1. I marked a reference line = 5-1/2=E2=80=9D away from=20 the end of the wood so I could line up the top end of = the=20 handle. This prevents one side of the handle from = being longer=20 than the other.
	Fig.2. Glue is applied to all surfaces = that touch.=20 Note how I stayed just slightly away from the = reference line.=20 I didn=E2=80=99t want too much glue to squeeze out = from the end of the=20 handle. It=E2=80=99s hard to remove!
Fig.3. Any squeezed out glue between the = junction of=20 the maple and walnut must be removed with a damp = cloth.=20 Adjustable hand screws are a good choice for = clamps.
	Fig.4. Find the center of the middle block = on the=20 handle side and carefully centerpunch it with a = sharp awl.=20 Do the same to the other end as well.
Fig.5. A small spur center holds the stock = securely=20 and won=E2=80=99t interfere with the turning = process.
	Fig.6. Form=20 the transition between the blade and the handle. A = half-bead=20 and a chamfer work great to join these two = elements.
Fig.7. I like=20 to grind my gouges to a sharp point. It allows me to = get into=20 tight corners without encountering any of the problems = associated with the skew.
	Fig.8. Form the small bead on the end of = the=20 handle.
Fig.9. Be careful when removing the = completed handle=20 from the lathe so you don=E2=80=99t snap off the = almost severed end=20 attached to the ball.
	Fig.10. A small piece of scrap stock is = used to=20 elevate the knife to compensate for the thicker = handle.
Fig.11. An oscillating spindle sander is = used to=20 sand the curves. Notice how the blank had to be = elevated here=20 as well.
	Fig.12. A 3/16=E2=80=9D roundover bit in a = laminate trimmer=20 is used to ease the top of the curve. You = won=E2=80=99t be able to get=20 in tight by the transition corner.
Fig.13. A=20 sharp chisel and abrasive paper smooths over the edge = of the=20 curve.
	Fig.14. This=20 is the jig I use to flex the body of the knife so the = handle=20 will be good and tight. If the blade is loose, = it=E2=80=99s=20 worthless!
Fig.15. The=20 metal blade is attached to the wooden knife through = the=20 pre-drilled holes at either end with two screws. The = serrated=20 blade is extremely sharp, so be very careful not to = get=20 cut!!
	Fig.16. The=20 plastic spline from a term paper cover is used for a = guard.=20 The guard should be placed over the back edge of the = blade. If=20 you try to put it over the teeth of the blade, it will = get=20 stuck.

download=20 the layout diagram in PDF format

This project is = from the=20 Summer 2004 issue. It is just one of many projects and = articles=20 presented in each issue of Woodturning Design.

If an = issue=20 of Woodturning Design is missing from your collection, = please go to=20 the Back=20 Issues page for ordering information.

If you = would like=20 to subscribe to Woodturning Design, please go to the Subscripti= on=20 Services page.

As = illustrated in=20 Fig. 12, you won=E2=80=99t be able to get right into the = transition between=20 the blade and the handle because the base of the trimmer is = too=20 large. A sharp chisel and abrasive paper eliminates this = abrupt=20 ending and fairs the rounded over edge into the transition = (see Fig.=20 13).

Once the top edges have been rounded over and = the=20 transition area has been addressed, cut the = =E2=80=9Cbelly=E2=80=9D of the knife to=20 shape and sand it on the spindle sander.

Spend a bit = of time=20 hand sanding the blade of the knife, making sure that all = the=20 scratches are eliminated and any sharp edges or corners are = rounded=20 over. I started with 120-grit stearated silicon carbide = abrasive=20 paper and sanded down to 320-grit.

I like to use the=20 stearated abrasive paper for sanding smaller projects. This = paper is=20 treated to prevent clogging and the silicon carbide grains = fracture=20 quicker, continually exposing fresh, sharp cutting edges. = The paper=20 might be a little more expensive, but the sanding process = goes so=20 much quicker!=20

FINISHING

Start the finishing process by applying a liberal coat of = boiled=20 linseed oil (thinned two to one with paint thinner) to the = surface=20 of the project. Allow it to penetrate the wood for about 15 = minutes=20 and then wipe off any excess with a dry cloth. Wiping off = the excess=20 oil is important. If it is not removed and is permitted to = dry, the=20 excess oil will congeal into a sticky mess that is extremely = difficult to remove.

I like to start my finishes this = way=20 because the oil acts as sort of a clear stain that imparts a = slightly yellow cast to the project, which I like. The oil = also=20 magnifies any defects but, unlike built up finishes such as = varnish=20 or shellac, you can go back and immediately sand them away = without=20 removing any surface buildup. A little more oil applied to = the=20 sanded area makes everything equal again. Allow the oil = mixture to=20 cure overnight.

Next, apply a liberal coat of a = lacquer-based=20 finish (like Deft) to the entire project. Because this is = just=20 intended to be a sealer coat, immediately wipe off any = excess with a=20 clean, dry cloth. Allow the Deft to dry for about an hour = and then=20 buff the project using a three-step buffing process detailed = as=20 follows: Three separate buffing wheels are used and each are = charged=20 with a different compound. The first wheel is charged with a = Tripoli=20 compound. It is slightly abrasive and eliminates any tiny = scratches=20 that might remain. It also smooths the wood. The second = wheel is=20 charged with a white diamond compound that removes any = excess=20 Tripoli compound and begins the polishing process. The third = wheel=20 is charged with Carnuba wax, producing a protective coating = while=20 shining the wood to a glossy finish.

ATTACHING THE SHARP BLADE =

I use an extremely sharp, serrated blade approximately = 3/8=E2=80=9D wide=20 and about 10-1/2=E2=80=9D long for my bread knives. The = blade is attached to=20 the wood with two 3/8=E2=80=9D x No. 4 pan head sheet metal = screws. It is=20 imperative that the blade be taut when it is fixed to the = handle. I=20 use a shop-built jig to ensure this.

Study the = photograph of=20 this simple jig shown in Fig. 14. It consists of two strips = of wood=20 that are attached to a small piece of plywood with nails. = The gap=20 between the strips is 9/16=E2=80=9D (equal to the thickness = of the blade=20 portion of the wooden body). Two small pieces of = 1/8=E2=80=9D stock are=20 glued into the channel, elevating the bread knife body just = slightly=20 above the strips when it is placed in the jig. A clamp is = used to=20 flex the bread knife body ever so slightly.

The = blade is=20 attached to the body with the screws located at the very = ends of the=20 holes pre-drilled in the metal blade. When the clamping = pressure is=20 removed, the bread knife body springs back to its original = length,=20 stretching the blade tighter than a violin = string!

Center the=20 metal blade on the bread knife body so the edge of the blade = aligns=20 with the edge of the wood and drill the 1/16=E2=80=9D pilot = holes. For=20 right-handed users, the blade should be positioned with the = teeth=20 facing you (see Fig. 15). For a left-handed user, the blade = must be=20 flipped over and attached so the teeth point away from you.=20 Lubricate the screws with beeswax to reduce the danger of = them=20 snapping and drive them in with a No. 1 Phillips-head=20 screwdriver.

I use the spline from a plastic term = paper cover=20 that I buy from the local office equipment store as a guard. = Cut it=20 off to 9-3/8=E2=80=9D long on the bandsaw so it fits over = the blade. I made=20 a sliding jig to help to do this because I cut so many; you = can cut=20 it freehand.

The guard should be placed over the back = side of=20 the blade (see Fig. 16). If you try to put it on over the = teeth of=20 the blade, it will get caught on the extremely sharp teeth.=20

This is a versatile knife. In addition to unsliced = bread,=20 bagels, and English muffins, it will also slice a variety of = vegetables (especially tomatoes) so thin you can almost see = through=20 them. It will slice warm bread directly from the oven and = even cut=20 cold meat.

Care for the knife is simple. Do not put = the knife=20 into the dishwasher or sink; just wipe down the wooden = portion with=20 a DRY cloth. If the metal = blade must be=20 washed, wipe it down with a wet sponge or cloth. Be sure to = dry it=20 thoroughly with a soft towel; if the blade is left wet, it = will=20 rust.

Retur= n=20 to current project =

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